This chapter details the instructions for making items related to urban gardening. Namely plant containers, compost bins, worm bins, beehives and various accessories.
Garden Containers
There are many possibilities when it comes to creating a garden container. The main issues to keep in mind are durability and drainage. The container you choose must be able to hold the soil mixture in a stable shape for the full duration of a growing season. A structural failure of the container could damage the plant and reduce the quality of the harvest.
The second consideration is drainage. One of the great advantages of container gardening is the possibility of starting with ideal soil, free from pathogens or weeds. To preserve this advantage, the container must have good drainage which allows excess water to flow out, and also allows air to flow in. Plant roots require water, nutrients, and oxygen to remain healthy, so good drainage (and aeration) are critical factors to keep in mind when selecting a planting container.
The shape of a container garden does not really matter, but choose the size and depth carefully based on the type of plants you intend to grow in it.
Bucket Garden
As the name suggests, the bucket garden uses a common plastic bucket as the container. The size and shape of the bucket used matter very little, except for limiting the size and number of plants that can be grown at the same time.
Preparing a plastic bucket for gardening is very simple:
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Cleaning:
As simple as this step is, it is also very important. This step removes any contaminants which could be harmful to the plant or the soil microbes that give the soil its fertility. In addition, some contaminants which are harmful to humans could be drawn up by the plant and end up in the food. Scrub the inside of the bucket thoroughly using ordinary soap, then rinse with clean water, taking care to ensure all of the soap is gone.Note: if there is any possibility that the bucket was used to transport or store hazardous substances (motor oil, fuel, pesticides, poisons etc) be on the safe side and avoid using that bucket.
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Securing drainage:
Drill drainage holes in the bottom of the bucket. You can use a power tool, or a sharp knife to cut small square or round holes in the bottom. Do not use heat or fire as it is difficult to control the size of the hole and burning plastic releases harmful fumes.
Optional: You can paint the outside of the bucket attractively to differentiate it. For those producing container gardens as a business, the outside area is an excellent place to put your business name and contact information, thereby building brand recognition.
Tyre Garden
The tyre garden can be established in old tyres of many different shapes. For larger sized tyres, the main consideration is stronger cutting tools, and larger liners. In general, the tyre is laid on its side, and one sidewall is cut away and laid over the inner surface of the other sidewall, doubling as a floor and a holder for the liner. Tyres can also be stacked (with both sidewalls cut out of all but the bottom tyre) to add the soil depth required for larger plants.
Tyres can be stacked to allow for deeper-rooting plants to be grown. However, the weight of the container increases considerably with each layer, and the strength of the liner must also increase for the container to remain portable.
To turn an old tyre into a garden container:
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Clean the tyre to remove any mould, insects and other unwanted contents.
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Using a sharp knife, machete or saw, pierce a hole in the sidewall and then cut continuously around the entire circumference of the tyre. The wider you cut, the more space there will be for plants to reach direct sunlight. However, the tread (the part that touches the road when it rolls) contains strong steel bands that are extremely difficult to cut through. There is a visible seam between the sidewall and tread that you can use as a visual guide.
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Remove the cut piece of sidewall and lay a large sheet of liner (the kind of tough plastic used for rubbish bags, or woven sack material) inside the tyre. The liner will keep the soil inside the tyre and make the garden portable. The liner should completely cover the hole.
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Place the cut off piece of sidewall inside the tyre, firmly against the bottom, to secure the liner in place. You can layer more sheets of liner on the bottom to add extra strength if the liner material is weak.
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Finally, to ensure good drainage; if the liner is water tight, carefully pierce many small holes in it so water can drain out of the centre hole of the tyre. If the liner material you are using is woven, you can skip this step—water and air should be able to pass through.
Optional: You can paint the outside of the tyre (the tread) attractively to differentiate it. For those producing container gardens as a business, the tread area is an excellent place to put your business branding and contact information.
Illustration of steps 2 and 4 of the instructions above.
Wire Mesh Garden
The wire mesh garden uses steel wire such as that used in fencing to support a durable liner that holds the soil.
The type of wire mesh which can be used to make a wire mesh container. Note the straight ends which can be bent into hooks or loops.
To complete this project, you will need wire cutters- the right size for the thickness of wire mesh you are using. For the thicker grades of wire mesh (perimeter fencing), you will not be able to bend and shape it bare-handed, so general purpose pliers will also be necessary.
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Measure the length of mesh that will form the walls of the container. A typical 25 litre bucket has a circumference of about 1m. You can also use a container as a template by wrapping a length of mesh all the way around its perimeter (include some overlap to secure it ). You can also just cut without measuring—the size of the final container is a matter of preference, and should be determined by the kind of plant(s) to be grown in it. Larger containers need to be made of stronger mesh or they will fall apart when filled with the weight of the soil.
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Using the wire cutters, cut the desired length of mesh. The main thing to make sure is that the piece of mesh is completely rectangular once you finish cutting.
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Decide which part of the rectangle will be the bottom, then roll the other two sides together so the bottom and top are circular holes. Secure the two edges together by looping the cut-off ends from one side around the intact loops on the other side. Use pliers if the metal is too difficult to bend by hand. Be thorough, as the strength of this join will determine how much soil the container will be able to hold without splitting open
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Illustration of steps 3 and 4 of the instructions above and below. -
Cut another piece of mesh that is slightly larger than the circular bottom all the way around.
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As in step 3, loop all the cut off ends around the edges of each piece of mesh together to form a strong join.
Bend the cut ends of mesh around the intact parts of the fence to form hooks or loops as shown here.
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Place a suitably sized liner to hold the soil in your completed mesh frame. If the liner is made of a woven material, that should be enough to ensure good drainage and airflow. If it is a sheet like a rubbish bag, carefully pierce many small holes in the bottom. Secure the top of the liner around the mouth of the container by piercing it on the cut off ends of mesh.
This type of material is strong enough to hold compost or soil and durable enough to resist tearing.
Photo,right: TM-MD (CC-BY 2.0)
Compost Bins
The bucket compost bin is essentially identical to the bucket garden, with all the same chemical safety considerations. The only difference is that, due to the oxygen demanding nature of compost production, the compost bin benefits from more holes pierced in the bottom and sides of the bucket.
In addition, compost heaps tend to perform better at larger sizes, so a 25 litre volume can generally be considered the minimum viable size for a compost heap to achieve the correct thermophilic temperatures.
The wire mesh compost bin is also very similar to the wire mesh garden container. The key difference is the liner. Good compost requires turning at regular intervals to increase oxygen flow. The liner of the compost bin needs to be very tough to avoid being accidentally torn during repeated turning. Materials such as the plastic used in rubbish bags are unsuitable for this purpose. The tough woven sack material used for bulk goods is a better choice.
The process for creating the mesh frame is identical to that of the wire mesh container garden, except for the choice of liner. In addition, many more holes pierced in the sides of the liner also aid oxygen flow to the compost.
Note: Tyres could potentially serve as compost bins, however the depth of an individual tyre on its side would generally be insufficient to build a suitable compost pile. A stack of identically sized and cut tyres can be stacked to form a compost bin.
Worm Bins
Worm bins should generally have a shallow and long shape because compost worms are most efficient when working on thin layers of material (maximum thickness of 30 centimetres). You can construct a bin as large as you want, but keep in mind that a bin full of worm castings can get quite heavy if you need to move it.
In addition, the worms need to be protected from the elements and kept in darkness with very good ventilation. These constraints still allow for a large variety of different options for purpose-built and recycled worm bins, including old clothes drawers and unused bathtubs. Whatever size bin you choose to move forward with, try to ensure that the depth of the bin is around 30 centimetres, or that it is only loaded in thin layers.
The methods listed below are by no means the only ways to build worm bins, but they are very simple, and use standard tools, materials and methods.
The procedure for preparing a bucket as a worm bin is almost identical to a compost bin and garden container. However, there are two crucial differences. Firstly, the holes in the bottom need to be larger (approximately 5 millimetres) to allow the worms to migrate upward from a full bin underneath. Secondly, there must be many ventilation holes around the container to ensure sufficient airflow.
Optional: Mark the maximum and minimum feed fill levels in 30 centimeter increments on the outside of the bucket as a user guide.
The procedure for preparing a tyre worm bin is very similar to preparing a tyre as a garden container. The main difference is the lining and drainage/migration holes. The plastic lining used to hold planting soil may not support holes large enough to allow the worms to migrate without tearing. You can experiment with adding more layers of liner to give it strength. Another option is to tear the liner open but keep a fine 5 millimetre mesh underneath the tyre to prevent material from falling out.
In addition, pierce drainage holes in the liner and lower sidewall to prevent worm tea from collecting in the low spots of the tyre and drowning the worms.
The wire mesh worm bin is identical to the wire mesh garden container and compost bin. A crucial point to ensure is that the liner is very well ventilated but does not allow light through. To achieve this, different liner materials can be combined. For example, a woven liner that does not block the light can be layered with a black plastic liner with many holes pierced in it.
The bottom of the container has the same considerations as the bottom of the tyre worm bin. If the mesh holes are very large, a finer mesh can be placed on the bottom, combined with 5 millimetre holes in the liner for the worms to migrate.
For all of the bin types a lid or top covering is essential to prevent light and insects from entering at the top. The lid does not need to be airtight because there should be no strong smells when the worms are healthy and eating. However, a sturdy lid may be necessary if there is a possibility of pests getting inside.
Finally, for collecting the worm tea, there are many ways to do it- your creativity will guide you. One very simple possibility is to secure liner material (unpierced plastic, not woven) around the lower perimeter of your bin. Then, all that is necessary is to raise the bin on something (eg a brick) placed underneath, but outside the liner. Then, as the worm tea fills up the bag, you can gently guide it out of a small hole pierced in the furthest end of the bag into a container of your choice.
The worm tea collection system adds more work, but it is well worth it as worm tea is an outstanding general fertiliser.
Top Bar Beehives
Correct design and construction is important for beehives. Failure to produce a suitable home for a bee colony could cause a colony to abscond (leave), or fail to colonise at all.
Bee hives can be quite challenging to build correctly. The design considered below is called the Kenyan top bar hive. Of the many possibilities , the top bar hive is one of the least technically challenging to construct correctly. The dimensions are based on the experience of generations of apiarists, and encourage desired behaviours in the colony. The primary requirements for hive construction are wood, and basic woodworking tools (hammer, nails, saw, tape measure, wood file etc). A beginner can successfully build a good top bar hive, provided that they are very careful and methodical in their work.
This illustration shows all the parts of a top bar hive, and the size of each component relative to the others (measurements in millimetres).
©: P Gregory, R Dyche, P Latham
The wood used to construct a hive must be chosen carefully. It will be exposed to the elements (unless kept in a bee house) and subject to degradation if it is not treated. However, many common wood treatments are, at best repulsive to bees, and at worst toxic. Thus it is ideal to begin with completely untreated wood. Protection and preservation will be discussed at the end of this section.
Please read all the way through to the notes at the end before proceeding with construction.
The top bar hive is made up of six main component types: the roof, side walls, end caps, top bars, entrance and (optional) landing stage. All of these parts are made from various lengths of wood plank. The thickness of the plank is not crucial but should be chosen to maximise the strength and durability of the hive while still allowing the wood to be worked easily.
The measurements for constructing this hive are not very rigorous and variation is acceptable—except for the top bars. The width of the top bars is directly related to the colony’s honeycomb construction and must be exact.
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Using double-ended nails (or normal nails with the flat end hammered to a point, or cut) nail together two short, wide lengths of plank, one about half the length of the other. Ensure that the centrelines of both pieces line up.
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Saw off the ‘steps’ on the ends of the gable, by cutting two diagonal lines connecting the uppermost corners of the longer plank with the base of the shorter plank, as shown in the illustration
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Nail small blocks of wood very securely onto both caps. These will serve as handles, as mounting points to hang the hive up or firmly secure a removable roof. They must be very robust
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In one of the end caps, drill a line of holes (or cut a slot) on the shortest side (which will correspond later with the bottom of the hive). It is very important that the holes be no more than 8 millimetres in diameter (slot no more than 8 millimetres high).
Illustration of the instructions above for building end caps (dimensions not to scale).
Optionally, add a small landing stage underneath the entrance to make the hive more attractive to bees. This can be done by nailing a block of wood to the hive, or by making the floor of the hive longer than the walls. The stage must be no wider than 2 centimetres, otherwise it will make the hive too vulnerable to attackers
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Landing stage underneath the entrance of a beehive.
Photo: Studio Beerhorst- BB Marie (CC-BY 2.0)
The width of the side walls must be the same as the length of the two non-parallel sides of the end caps (see illustration). If you don't have wide enough planks, you will need to combine some to achieve the correct width.
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Hammer planks together using double-ended nails at regular intervals along the length. Ensure the join is tight to prevent invading insects from accessing the hive. Optionally, you can make the side walls slightly narrower than the sides of end caps. Then, the protruding tops of the ends caps will help to hold the top bars firmly and prevent them from shifting or slipping off the body.
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You need 3 'walls'. One of them must be narrower than the other two—the same width as the shortest side of the end caps—and will actually serve as the floor of the hive
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Decide how many top bars you want, and ensure there is at least that much length in the walls. That is, if you want to have 10 top bars of 3.2 centimetres in width each, you will need walls (and floor) that are at least 32 centimetres long (10 x 3.2 cm = 32 cm). If you lack accurate measuring equipment, the length is not crucial- you can add or remove top bars to suit whatever the final length is. Decide the length of the hive, then cut all 3 walls to your desired length.
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If there is a gap left when all top bars are in place that is narrower than a top-bar, you can insert a narrowed bar that will act as a filler, but do not bait it with wax like the others.
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Nail the end caps onto the walls and floor. You should have a gabled structure with no top
This is the least demanding component, so you can improvise somewhat. The main point to remember is that the roof must achieve two things: it must be weatherproof to protect the bees and the wood of the hive, and it must deter potential pests from gaining access.
One simple roof structure is a suitably sized rectangle of wire mesh cut to size (overlapping or firmly in contact with the end caps) and shaped into a gentle curve. With a liner of waterproof plastic sheeting, this would make a suitable roof. It can be secured against pests and wind by looping string or wire around the handles in the end caps and tying them to the mesh.
A roof structure can also be made by nailing together a board of planks (like with the sidewalls) to cover the top of the hive, and wrapping it in waterproof plastic sheeting. The weight of the wood itself should be enough to deter pests and prevent it from blowing away.
Making the top bars is the most demanding part of the project because the dimensions (like the entrance slot) must be correct to ensure the bees will build their honeycombs correctly. Well-cut top bars will help to avoid many of the problems associated with top bar hives. It is absolutely crucial that the width of the top bars be between 32 and 33 millimetres (3.2 and 3.3 centimetres). This is approximately the diameter of a crown-toothed bottle cap (the wider side with teeth). Inaccurately cut bars will cause cross-combing (two adjacent bars having a single comb attached to both) making harvesting difficult.
A crown-toothed bottle cap being used to measure the correct width of a top bar before being cut.
Copyright: P Gregory, R Dyche, P Latham
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Cut a length of plank so it can sit securely across the top of the hive, then reduce its width to the correct value. Before cutting, ensure that the width will be correct over the entire length of the bar.
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Cut a channel/groove along the length of the top bars in the middle of the bar. Don’t cut the ends of the bar that rest on the walls of the hive.
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File down the ungrooved ends (on the face that touches the sidewalls) so the top bars cannot accidentally slide off the hive.
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Using a lit beeswax candle, or molten beeswax, deposit a wax strip into the channel, ensuring a uniform thick layer of wax. Only use pure beeswax. No other materials should be substituted. If there is a ‘filler’ top bar, do not cut a channel or apply any wax to it.
Note in the photo the way in which the top bars are of uniform width, and have recessed (filed down/ cut) ends which allow them to sit stably on the side walls.
Photo: Blumenbiene (CC-BY 2.0)
The shape of the hive means it can be set on a flat surface, as long as it is suitably braced to prevent toppling. However, it is crucial that pests be prevented from having easy access. The most common way is to mount the hive on a stand which holds it off the ground. There are many different arrangements that can be used to achieve this—often as simple as hanging the hive from a suitable tree branch using strong cable or rope. Detailed below is a simple design for a free standing mount for a top bar hive. The stand is a simple four-legged h-frame.
An illustration of the completed beehive stand. The two narrow ends are called H-frames and will support the hive's weight. The H-frames are joined to each other by a pair of longwise braces on each side. (Dimensions not to scale.)
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Select four planks which will serve as legs. They must all be of equal length, at least 1.5 metres long.
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Select four more planks (longwise braces), which must be slightly (about 5 centimetres) shorter than the length of the hive.
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Select a final four planks (cross braces) and cut them to a length that is greater than the width of the narrow part of the hive. In other words, the length of the cross braces must be greater than the width of the bottom of the hive. This will make the H wide enough for the bottom of the hive to rest on the top cross brace of each H-frame. However, keep in mind that the longer the cross braces (the wider the H shape), the thicker and stronger the planks need to be to support the hive when it is full.
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Nail one leg onto the end of one cross brace, with the wide faces in contact. There must be about 10 centimetres of the leg protruding beyond the cross brace.
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Nail another leg in the same manner onto the other end of the cross brace. The legs must protrude the same amount beyond the brace (so the brace is level).
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Secure another crpss brace across the pair of legs, again leaving a gap from the end and making sure the brace is level. Repeat steps 4-6 with the other two legs and cross braces. Once complete, you should have two separate H-frames.
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Nail a longwise brace to one H-frame and the corresponding point on the other H-frame.
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Repeat step 7 for the other 3 longwise braces until the H-frames and longwise braces form a free-standing box shape, with leg protrusions on the top and bottom.
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For extra strength, drive extra nails at the contact points between braces and legs around the stand.
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To exclude crawling pests, each of the legs can be kept in a shallow container of oil.
The H-frames, which correspond to the end caps of the hive, are assembled using legs and cross braces. The H-frames are then joined to each other with longwise braces, as shown in the side view of a completed stand (dimensions not to scale).
A well-secured roof with some overhang should be enough to protect the wood from rain and sun damage. However, decay is inevitable unless the wood is treated or coated. There are few treatments which are both safe for bees and waterproof. Flaxseed/linseed oil is one alternative, beeswax is another. Beeswax is delicate, but long lasting, and has the advantage of being attractive to potential new colonists. Flaxseed oil takes a long time to dry, and must be applied in very thin layers. It is absorbed into the wood to form a fairly durable finish.
Another option is painting, which will also provide a weather barrier. Besides toxicity, colour is an important choice for painting. White is the most often chosen colour because it reflects heat and keeps the bees inside cool and comfortable in the summer months. In winter, they are able to keep themselves warm.
Whatever coating is chosen, it is best to only coat outside areas that will be in contact with the elements, leaving inner surfaces bare. Also, allow plenty of time after painting for off-gassing and drying to occur so that the smell does not potentially repel the bees.
The lifetime of an untreated hive could be several seasons in ideal (dry) conditions. However a treated hive (and stand) could remain in habitable condition for a decade or more.
A good way to greatly increase the strength and durability of the structure is to reinforce all joins and seams with wood glue during construction. As with coatings, the glue must be carefully chosen to ensure that I will be non-toxic to bees. Casein glue (made from milk casein, lime and sodium hydroxide) is a good option.
Finally, although it is not strictly crucial, building hives with standard dimensions (especially roof width) allows for top bars of a standard length to be easily transferred from one hive to another without disturbing the honeycombs. This is a very useful feature for operations like dividing colonies. It makes the life of the beekeeper more convenient.
Cold Frames
A cold frame is a small box or covering which is used to protect growing plants from excessive cold. In very cold northern climates, they are used to protect garden plants from extremes of cold and snow. In milder climates, they can be used to extend the growing season of summer plants into the winter. A good cold-frame allows the gardener to ‘trick’ their plants into growing as if summer lasts all year round. A cold frame can be thought of as a mini greenhouse.
Like greenhouses, cold frames can be made with glass panels that allow light in and out while trapping heat. They can also be made using various types of agricultural plastic sheets, which are more cost-effective and lighter than glass, if perhaps shorter-lived. The frame can be anything that can support a pane of glass or a sheet of plastic that allows light to reach the plant.
Cold frames must not be used in summer—excessive heat is very likely to damage the plants.
The steps to build a simple wire mesh cold frame are outlined below:
The cold frame is designed to fit over a bucket, tyre or wire mesh garden container to protect the plants growing inside it. It is a cylindrical shape designed to fit over the top.
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Using the size of the container to be protected as a template, cut a length of mesh that will form a circle around the container, but large enough to leave space all around for the growing plants. Estimate the adult size of the plants to be grown and choose a diameter that leaves 5-10 centimetres all around.
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Choose the height of the mesh cylinger to leave plenty of space (30-50 centimetres) above the expected height of the plant(s).
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Secure clear agricultural plastic (polyethylene) sheeting to line the entire cylinder, except for 5-10 centimetres at the bottom. The gap at the bottom is to allow fresh airflow into the box without letting the warm air (which rises to the top) escape.
Frost/Shade Net Frame
The purpose of the netting box is to protect the plant from physical damage from hail in summer, and from frost damage in cold weather while still allowing full air flow and rainwater entry. It also protects the plant from direct sunlight which can cause wilting and other damage on very hot days. In winter, the net box does not help the plants stay warm.
The steps to build the wire mesh net box are identical to those for the cold frame. The only difference is the liner, which is agricultural shade netting, or a similarly breathable and see-through woven material.
Casein Glue
Casein glue is a non-toxic adhesive made from casein (a protein found in cow’s milk), vinegar and baking soda. It is water resistant and long lasting, and suitable for diverse uses. The steps and equipment required are listed below.
Equipment and ingredients
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Stove/hotplate
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mixing bowl
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rough woven cloth (as a filter)
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pot
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skimmed/ low fat milk (must be cow’s milk)
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vinegar
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baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
Instructions
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Heat the milk in the pot for 3-5 minutes but do not allow to boil.
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Add 2 tablespoons of vinegar to the milk, stirring constantly.
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Continue to stir until solid pieces (called curds) form, then remove the pot from heat.
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Allow the mixture to cool and then filter out the solids using the cloth (or other coarse filter).
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Keep the solids (curds) and discard the liquid (whey).
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Rinse the curds with water, to wash away vinegar.
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Allow the curds to dry completely, then grind them into a powder (Store for later use in a sealed container).
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Place curds in mixing bowl and add I tablespoon of baking soda.
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Stir the two together with a little water until they are a smooth paste. The glue is now ready to apply.
Bee Suit
The purpose of the bee suit is to protect the beekeeper during hive operations. Although precautions are taken to prevent alarming the bees during these operations, a few will sting. A good bee suit prevents any stings from reaching the skin. A purpose-built bee suit is best, but it is possible to improvise a safe bee suit. A suit is composed of four parts; boots, overalls, gloves and hood/veil.
A beekeeper wearing safety gear inspecting a hive. Note the sleeves of the jacket tucked into the gloves. The veil provides protection despite its thinness by maintaining a distance between the beekeeper's face and the bees. All the other parts of the suit work by being very thick.
Photo: Oakley Originals (CC-BY 2.0)
The boots can be substituted with any closed, sturdy shoes. It is critical to ensure that the chosen shoes are completely closed. If they do not reach above the ankle there might be a gap between the bottom of the trousers and top of the shoes. Make sure to provide adequate protection of the ankles
The overalls can be substituted with layers of thick clothing. The clothing must cover the entire torso up to the wrists, and legs down to the ankles. The chosen clothing must not have many pockets or decorations in which bees can get caught and injured or alarmed. Tuck the top into the trousers and use a tight belt to prevent bees from entering. As with any kind of protective gear, this clothing must be washed thoroughly clean after every hive operation to remove the scent of alarm pheromone from it.
The gloves must be thick enough to prevent stings from getting through while also maintaining the dexterity of the hands. Thick rubber gloves serve well for this purpose. Rawhide welding gloves (completely clean) can also be used. The gloves must be firmly secured to the sleeves at the wrist, using adhesive tape, string or shoelace. Ensure the connection is very secure and will not come undone as you move and work
Stings to the head and neck have the highest chance of causing serious injury. The veil is therefore the most safety-critical part of the bee-suit. It is not recommended to improvise or reuse materials to serve as a hood, because these materials may not be reliable enough. The best idea is to purchase a professionally-made hood.
If that is not possible, a veil can be improvised using a length of suitable cloth and a wide-brimmed sun hat. The cloth (wedding veil material or lace curtain material can work) must extend from the top of the head to well below the shoulders and collarbone, with the hat on. Then, tie string or a shoelace around the hat, just above the brim. This will force the material to fall down the brim and away from the face, increasing the distance between skin and cloth. The protection comes from the distance. The bottom end of the cloth must be secured firmly inside the torso covering.
Smoker
The smoker is the beekeeper’s best friend. Without ample smoke, hive operations are difficult or impossible to perform safely and without alarming the bee colony. There are many possible designs that can be used which are very convenient and easy to use. Very good smokers are readily available from agricultural supply stores. However, if that is not an option a simple tin can will work.
All that is necessary is to poke holes in the bottom to allow fresh air in. It is less versatile than a purpose-built smoker because it must always be held upright, and can only smoke above itself not downward. However a partner with a fan can guide the smoke where needed. Once the fuel is smouldering, the metal sides of the can become too hot to hold, even through gloves. Only hold the can through several layers of insulating cloth and/or paper, or using tongs or similar implement.
It is not a good idea to light an open fire underneath or near the hive because of the risk that it runs out of control or causes damage to the hive or stand.
